May 19 -- By the time Mike and Phil arrive in Victoria on Westjet from
Calgary at 8:25 AM, we are “delighted” to learn that Brian and Ray have already
been out birding for a couple of hours and notched up two new birds, Rufous
Hummingbird and Black-headed Grosbeak. It is a fine sunny morning and we are
happy to find a Black-throated Gray Warbler at Horth Hill Regional Park, just a
few minutes from the airport. Here we heard a Pacific-slope Flycatcher, but
don’t manage to track it down. It is the first of three “heard-only” species
today which go onto our list, but we won’t be satisfied till we’ve actually
seen the birds.
Black-headed Grosbeak |
Black-throated Gray Warbler |
Stopping at the first of three visitor centres on a
30 km stretch of road, we learn that the best resource for birding information
in the park is Ewen Brittain, who’s working at the Kwisitis
Visitor Centre (the old Wickannish Inn). We track down Ewen, who is very
helpful and advises that another birder saw a Bar-tailed Godwit in Tofino
yesterday, which we’ll try for later. Scoping from the Visitor Centre, we see a
good variety of birds and mammals on or near the small islets scattered in the
sound, including Steller’s Sea Lions and both Humpback and Gray Whales. Following up on Ewen’s advice, we find over
50 Whimbrels and a Black Bear (new mammal!) at Grice Bay.
Whimbrel |
Black Bear, Nonchalantly Watching Us |
It’s time to check into our hotel, the Best Western Tin Wis,
where we find the rooms to be comfortable and then enjoy an excellent early
dinner in the restaurant overlooking the bay. It’s time to head to the mudflats
at the end of Sharp Road, as the tide will be coming in. Ray soon finds the godwit
for us, but it is at a considerable distance, and the light is fairly poor. Was
it a Bar-tailed Godwit? – we may never know. A highlight is watching two
Caspian Terns fishing in the shallows.
We make a run down to Ucluelet, 40 km to the south, and are
successful in finding the Sea Otters in Little Bay, just where Ewen had told us
to look. No luck, however, with California Sea Lions in the harbour.
May 20 -- Today we are booked on a whale watch, but first we head back
to Sharp Road. Brian has read on VIBirds that a local birder saw a Hudsonian
Godwit there yesterday. This morning we see what is, without doubt, a Hudsonian
Godwit.
We check in to the West Coast Aquatic Safaris office and put
on the rain jackets supplied for the
whale watch. Ray and Phil spot a
California Sea Lion right next to the wharf as we are boarding. We go out on
the Nanuq, a very comfortable 36-passenger catamaran, with about 15 passengers
on board this morning. Unfortunately the route is planned to take us for a
close encounter with a Gray Whale off Long Beach, and away from Cleland Island
where we’d hoped to see Tufted Puffins. And we don’t go far enough offshore to
see any petrels or shearwaters. So we have to content ourselves with excellent
looks at the Gray Whale and a colony of Steller’s Sea Lions. We see lots of
seabirds, but the looks are not great as we speed along in the catamaran.
Gray Whale |
Steller's Sea Lions hanging out |
A male Steller's Sea Lion Ponders His Next Move |
In the afternoon we scour various coves and rocky areas for Wandering
Tattlers, but have no success. A couple more visits to Sharp Road prove
disappointing from a shorebird standpoint, but we do finally manage glimpses of a Townsend’s Warbler singing high
above us. The rain forecast for today has settled in and we elect to bring the
birding day to an end.
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